Types of Suits
Selecting the right suit, shirt, necktie knots and shoes is critical for a smooth transition into a new corporate culture.
by Rita Gworek

As soon as you know the career field you will be entering and the dress codes of that culture, it is essential to select the right clothing for that environment. Just as you had to wear your uniform following certain regulations, you will want to do the same with your civilian clothing. Let’s take a look at some of the suits and accessories that will make you successful in the corporate environment.

All suits are not created the same nor do they fit the same on each person. Suits come in double-breasted styles with six buttons, four buttons, and two buttons. They normally have peaked lapels, although at times you may see them with notched labels. This creative style of suit will have side vents in the back of the jacket.

Double-Breasted Suit
A doubled-breasted suit is considered a more formal style and is used mostly in “after five” events and more social settings. It is never considered a serious business suit. If the career field you have chosen is more creative such as graphic arts, public relations, event planning, etc., this suit will show that you have fashion sense. The double-breasted suit is worn with a spread collared shirt. It can be a European-style spread collar, a full-spread collar, a half-spread collar, a sculptured-spread collar, or what is called a cut away collar.

There are six or more collar styles in dress shirts that men can choose to wear. The spread collar requires you to put a full Windsor knot in your tie. Since the spread collar has a lot of space between the collar points, it looks best with a fuller knot — the full Windsor. This is the only suitable collar style and knot to wear with a double-breasted suit. Since this suit is more creative it would be best to wear shoes that show some style like a Kiltie Tassel loafer, lizard or alligator skin shoe, or a monk strap and buckle style shoe.

Three-Button Suit
Next is the three-button style suit. This is not a new look and has actually been in style for a long time. Most often this style suit has no vent in the back of the jacket. On occasion you see it with a single vent or double vents. Some of the appropriate collar styles for this suit are classic or standard collar, pointed collar, tab collar, and spread collar. The button-down collar can be worn with it if you want to make the suit look a little more relaxed. The best shoe to wear with the three-button suit is a cap-toe style. Currently, shoes with a little more of a square toe are in style. Do not pick a shoe with an exaggerated square toe as it will go out of style quickly.

Traditional Suit
The traditional style suit is the two-button model. As with any suit the closure can vary on the jacket. The buttons can be higher or lower on the body. Normally the two-button suit has a single vent in the back of the jacket.

The type of collared shirt to wear with this suit is determined by the message you want to send.

Do you want to say you are traditional or more stylish? If traditional, then you would wear a classic style collar or a pointed collar with a half Windsor knot in your tie. If you want to be more stylish then wear a spread collar with a full Windsor knot. The shoes should be a wing tip style, which is very traditional.

Sport Coat or Blazer
A sport coat or blazer is a more relaxed look that is worn at the office on casual Fridays. Sport coats and blazers can be found in double-breasted or two- and three-button styles. They can have single vents, double vents, or no vents at all. The sport coat or blazer and dress pants are worn with a button-down collared shirt. This style of collar is more relaxed than the others. It says “casual.” Tie a half Windsor or four-in-hand knot on it and never wear a spread collar with this casual look. Button-down collared shirts can also be worn without a tie if the situation is even more casual. The shoes should be a slip-on style like a penny loafer, Venetian, moc toe or buckle strap style shoe.

This is a sampling of the selection of different styles of suits, collars and knots. You need to decide which is going to work best for your environment. It is possible you will need all these styles in your closet. Choose wisely, and you’ll stand proud.