Build-to-Suit
Getting the perfect fit to your workplace wardrobe will likely require a trip to your friendly neighborhood tailor.
By Rita Gworek 

Unless you are purchasing tailor-made suits – highly unlikely on a military income – it’s very likely that your wardrobe purchases are going to need some type of alterations. Here are some things to consider when tailoring your wardrobe for career success.

1. Sleeves: The sleeve length should end right where your hand and arm meet. You will be able to feel the sleeve just brush the palm of your hand with your arm down. I have heard people in my class say the shop where they purchased their suits said that they could not shorten the sleeves on the suit jacket because the buttons were in the way.  Not true.  A good tailor removes the buttons, duplicates the placket and sews the buttons back on again.  Again, check the Yellow Pages for a custom tailor shop.  They will do it right. 

2. Body: With your suit jacket on, pull the jacket out away from your body at the top button of a two-button model or the middle button of a three-button model.  You should be able to pull it no more than three inches away from your body.  This is the correct fit around your middle.  Put all the things in your pockets you will carry. It is best to carry a checkbook style wallet in your inside breast pocket. Put your cell phone, business cards and whatever else you carry in your suit jacket.  This way the tailor will give you enough room so that your jacket doesn’t bulge out in the wrong places. 

3. Suit Jacket: Here are some things to keep in mind about the fit of a suit jacket. The collar should hug your neck.  It should not look like it is too big for you.  If it is too large, ask the tailor to make it tighter around your neck.  This is an expensive alteration.  If the store tailor is unwilling to make the alterations, you may need to find a custom tailor shop.

If you have square shoulders you may notice a bubble in the fabric just under your collar in the back. This should be corrected by a tailor who will lower the collar. Some stores do not like to do this alteration. If that’s the case, take it to a custom tailor shop to have it done. It’s the right thing to do to ensure a proper fit.

The length of the suit jacket should at least cover your buttocks. Put your jacket on and have someone take a measurement in back from under your jacket collar down to where your pants end at your shoes.  The length of the jacket is then determined by dividing that measurement in half. 

4. Pants: If you decide to wear plain-front pants, then leave the bottoms plain also.  Do not cuff them. When wearing pleated pants, they look better with cuffs. Pleated pants also give you a little more room to expand when you sit down.  Pleats are best if you have heavy thighs or fuller buttocks. The pants should end with a break on the top of your shoes.  Tailors often ask if you want a light, medium or heavy break.  It is your choice.  Place the pants on your hips where they are most comfortable for you before the tailor marks the length.  Always wear the shoes that you will be wearing with the pants to get the length right, too.

Check the rise in your pants. The rise is the crotch area. Some manufacturers will give you choices in long, medium or short rises. See which works best for you. A tailor can also make changes in the rise of the pants.

Finally, check yourself out in a mirror. Look front, back and side views. Look good? Then you are good to go!